Ulleungdo Island: Korea’s Most Remote and Spectacular Destination

Most visitors to Korea stick to Seoul, Busan, and Jeju — but if you’re looking for somewhere genuinely off the beaten track, Ulleungdo deserves a place on your itinerary. This small volcanic island sits in the East Sea (Sea of Japan), roughly 217 kilometres from the Korean mainland, and it feels like a different world: dramatic black-rock cliffs, crystal-clear water, forests of ancient cedar, and a seafood culture built around some of the freshest squid you’ll ever eat. It’s not the easiest destination to reach, but that’s precisely the point.

What Is Ulleungdo?

Ulleungdo is a volcanic island of around 44 square kilometres, born from ancient underwater eruptions that pushed black basalt and andesite rock up through the sea floor. It’s administered as part of North Gyeongsang Province, though geographically it feels closer to nothing at all — the nearest land is the Korean peninsula to the west and disputed Dokdo islets to the southeast. The island has a permanent population of around 10,000 people, many of whom are involved in squid fishing, which has been the lifeblood of Ulleungdo for generations. You’ll also find terraced fields of pumpkin, the ingredient behind the island’s most famous drink: pumpkin makgeolli, a slightly sweet, cloudy rice wine that’s become a signature souvenir. There’s no mass tourism infrastructure here, no chain hotels, and very little English signage — which is either a warning or a selling point, depending on how you travel.

How to Get to Ulleungdo

There’s currently no airport on Ulleungdo — a new one is planned for the mid-2020s, but as of early 2026 the only way to arrive is by ferry. Three mainland ports offer crossings:

• Pohang — the most popular departure point; the crossing takes around 3 hours and ferries run daily in summer.
• Donghae — around 3.5 hours; a convenient option if you’re already exploring the east coast. The nearby port of Mukho (technically part of Donghae city) also handles some sailings.
• Gangneung — seasonal services; check availability before planning around this option.

Ferries run daily through the summer peak season (June–August) but drop to a reduced schedule — sometimes two or three times a week — in winter. More importantly, the East Sea is prone to rough swells, and sailings get cancelled when conditions are poor. Build flexibility into your schedule: if you’re planning a tight itinerary in the style of the best day trips from Busan, Ulleungdo doesn’t work that way. Give yourself at least three or four nights, with spare days for weather. Seasickness patches are widely available at Korean pharmacies and are worth taking if you’re at all prone.

Where to Stay

Most accommodation is concentrated in two port villages. Dodong-ri is the main hub — it has the most guesthouses, pensions, restaurants, and the island’s central market. Jeodong-ri, a short drive north, is a little quieter and slightly cheaper. Both villages are walking distance from ferry terminals, which matters if your boat arrives late. Budget pensions (minbak) start at around ₩60,000–80,000 per night as of early 2026 — verify before visiting, as rates rise sharply in July and August. Book well ahead for the peak summer weeks; Ulleungdo has a loyal following among Korean domestic tourists who return every year. For an easy comparison of available options, you can compare guesthouses and hotels on Trip.com before you go.

What to Do

Ulleungdo’s coastline is its headline attraction. The Haengnam Coastal Cliff Path (행남해안산책로) is one of Korea’s finest coastal walks — a dramatic route carved into the cliff face, with rope bridges, sea-level tunnels, and views of rock stacks rising straight out of the water. It connects Dodong-ri to Jeodong-ri and takes about an hour each way at a relaxed pace. Go early in the morning before tour groups arrive.

Inland, the island rewards those who venture upward. Nari Basin (나리분지) sits inside an old volcanic caldera in the north of the island — a peaceful highland plateau with hiking trails and a handful of traditional thatched-roof houses. It’s the best place to escape the coast and feel the island’s geology underfoot. Bongnaepolpo Waterfall (봉래폭포) is an easy 20-minute walk from Dodong and worth a stop on a hot day. For a quick landmark, Turtle Rock (거북바위, also called Gamsaekbawi) near the southern shore looks exactly as the name suggests and is a favourite photo spot at sunset. If you’re interested in seeing autumn colour at its most dramatic, Ulleungdo’s cedar and broadleaf forests turn spectacular in October — comparable to the best autumn foliage in Korea.

What to Eat

Squid is the reason many Koreans make the journey. Grilled squid (오징어구이, ojingeo-gui) straight off the fishing boats is the dish to order — the Ulleungdo squid has a different texture from what you’ll find on the mainland, meatier and sweeter, because it’s genuinely fresh. The harbour market in Dodong sells it dried, grilled, or raw, and you’ll smell it cooking from half a kilometre away. Beyond squid, look for:

• Pumpkin makgeolli — the island’s signature drink, slightly sweet and cloudy; bottles make a great souvenir.
• Local seafood bibimbap — made with whatever came off the boats that morning.
• Mugwort dishes — the island grows a lot of mugwort (ssuk), and it shows up in rice cakes, soups, and pancakes.
• Yakcho corn — a sweet local corn variety sold roasted on the roadside in summer.

Best Time to Visit and Practical Tips

The practical travel window is May through October, when ferries run more reliably and the weather is warm enough to enjoy the coast. Late August can bring typhoons that shut down sailings for days, so late May–June or September–October are often the sweetest spots. The island’s autumn colour peaks in mid-to-late October and is genuinely special — quieter than the peak of summer, with cooler hiking temperatures. For context on timing your trip around Korea’s seasons more broadly, the guide to Sokcho and Seoraksan covers similar east-coast weather patterns.

A few things to know before you go:

• Cash — ATMs exist in Dodong but are limited. Bring more cash than you think you’ll need; many small restaurants and pensions don’t accept cards.
• English signage — minimal. Download offline Korean maps (Naver Maps works well on Ulleungdo) and have a translation app ready.
• Getting around — a coastal road circles most of the island, and local buses connect the main villages. Renting a scooter or bicycle is a popular option in summer; taxis are available but pricey.
• Ferry tickets — book in advance through the operator’s website or at the port terminal; sailings fill up fast in peak season, and you may need to show your passport for the crossing.
• Flexibility — the ferry can be cancelled at 24 hours’ notice due to weather. This is part of the adventure, not a bug in the system.

Ulleungdo is the kind of place that rewards travellers who show up without a rigid plan. It’s remote, a little rough around the edges, and completely unlike anywhere else in Korea. If you’ve ticked off the standard circuit and want something that feels genuinely different — this is it.